Most roadworthy fails come down to small, avoidable things — a blown globe, a bald tyre, a dodgy wiper blade. Run through this checklist before your inspection to catch the obvious stuff and give your car the best chance of passing first time.
Download the printable PDF checklist to keep a copy on your phone.
Tyres
- Tread above the 1.5 mm legal minimum across the full width of every tyre
- No cracking, bulging, cuts or cord showing on sidewalls
- Even wear across the tread — inside and outside edges
- Correct size and load rating for the vehicle
- Tyres on the same axle match in size and type
- Spare tyre present and inflated (if the car was supplied with one)
- Wheel nuts all present and secure
Tip: Uneven tyre wear usually means the alignment is out or a suspension component is worn. Both of those will also fail the roadworthy, so uneven wear is a clue that more may need attention.
Brakes
- No squealing, grinding or metallic scraping when braking
- Pedal feels firm — does not sink slowly or feel spongy
- Car stops in a straight line without pulling left or right
- Handbrake holds the car securely on a slope
- No brake warning light on the dashboard
- No visible fluid leaks around the wheels or brake lines
Tip: If the pedal feels soft or the car pulls under braking, book a brake inspection before the roadworthy. Brakes are one of the most common fail points.
Lights and electrical
- Both headlights work — low beam and high beam
- Both front indicators and both rear indicators flash correctly
- Both brake lights illuminate when the pedal is pressed
- Tail lights and rear park lights work
- Number plate light illuminates the rear plate
- Reversing light works when reverse is selected
- Hazard lights flash all indicators simultaneously
- Horn sounds clearly
Tip: Ask someone to stand behind the car while you press the brakes and flick the indicators. Globe replacements are cheap — a failed inspection because of a blown bulb is not worth it.
Windscreen, wipers and washers
- No cracks or chips in the driver’s swept area (directly ahead through the wipers)
- No cracks larger than a 50-cent coin anywhere on the screen
- Wiper blades clear the screen without streaking, smearing or skipping
- Washer fluid sprays onto the windscreen and is not empty
- Rear wiper works (if fitted)
Tip: Small chips outside the driver’s line of sight may pass, but anything in the main swept area will fail. Get chips repaired early — they spread.
Mirrors
- Interior rear-view mirror is present and gives a clear view
- Both exterior mirrors are present, secure and adjustable
- Mirror glass is not cracked, clouded or missing
Steering and suspension
- Steering wheel does not have excessive free play before the wheels respond
- Car tracks straight on a flat road without constant correction
- No knocking, clunking or banging over bumps or turning
- Car does not bounce excessively after hitting a bump (worn shocks)
- No visible leaks from shock absorbers
Tip: Suspension wear is gradual. If you have been noticing a vague feeling in the steering, nose-dive under braking, or a clunk over speed bumps, get it inspected — those are the things a tester checks on the hoist.
Seatbelts
- Every seatbelt retracts fully and smoothly when released
- Every buckle clicks securely and releases cleanly
- No cuts, fraying or heavy staining on the webbing
- All mounting points are secure with no cracking or rust around the bolts
- Rear seatbelts included — check the middle belt too
Body and structure
- No structural rust — check sills, chassis rails, floor panels, strut towers and door bottoms
- All doors open and close properly from both inside and outside
- Bonnet and boot latches hold securely
- No sharp edges or body damage that could injure a pedestrian
Tip: Surface rust is generally fine. Structural rust — where the metal has weakened, perforated or become flaky on a load-bearing panel — is a fail. Check underneath if you can.
Exhaust
- No holes, cracks or excessive noise from the exhaust system
- Exhaust hangers intact — the system should not be hanging loose
- No smell of exhaust fumes inside the cabin
Under the bonnet
- No obvious oil or coolant leaks on or around the engine
- Coolant reservoir between min and max
- Brake fluid reservoir above the minimum line
- Battery terminals clean and secure
What this checklist does not cover
This covers the items you can check yourself before the inspection. A licensed tester also checks items that require a hoist, measuring tools and diagnostic equipment — suspension joint play, rotor thickness, structural integrity underneath, and more.
If anything on this list is borderline, it is always cheaper to know before the inspection. We can do a pre-inspection check and a full roadworthy inspection at our Oakleigh South workshop. If something needs fixing, we quote it clearly before starting.
For the official VicRoads standard, see VicRoads — roadworthy certificates.
Ready to book? Call us on 0424 156 703 or send your rego online.