A roadworthy certificate (RWC) confirms your car meets the minimum safety standards set by VicRoads. You need one to sell a registered vehicle, re-register a car, or clear a defect notice. Only a licensed vehicle tester can perform the inspection and issue the certificate.
Here is what a licensed tester actually looks at during the inspection — and what catches people out.
Brakes
Brakes are one of the most common reasons a car fails a roadworthy. The tester checks:
- Pad thickness — front and rear. If pads are worn past the minimum, the car fails.
- Rotor condition — excessive scoring, lipping or heat damage means replacement or machining.
- Brake lines and hoses — cracking, leaks or swelling in rubber hoses is a fail.
- Handbrake — must hold the car securely on a grade.
- Pedal feel — a soft, spongy or sinking pedal indicates air in the lines or low fluid.
If your brakes are making noise or your pedal feels different than usual, it is worth getting a brake inspection before the roadworthy so there are no surprises.
Tyres and wheels
Every tyre is measured and inspected:
- Tread depth — the legal minimum is 1.5 mm across the full tread width. Most testers measure at multiple points.
- Condition — cracking, bulging, cuts or exposed cords are an automatic fail.
- Matching — tyres on the same axle must be the same size and type. Mixing radials and cross-plies fails.
- Wheel condition — cracked or buckled rims, loose or missing wheel nuts.
Uneven tyre wear often points to alignment or suspension issues that may also need rectifying.
Steering and suspension
The tester checks for anything that affects how the car tracks, handles and stops:
- Steering rack — excessive play, leaks or stiffness.
- Ball joints and tie-rod ends — worn joints allow the wheels to move unpredictably.
- Bushings — cracked or perished rubber mounts in control arms and sway bars.
- Shock absorbers — leaking or bottomed-out shocks are a fail.
- Springs — broken or sagging coil springs.
Suspension wear is gradual, so drivers often do not notice it until the car is on a hoist. A clunk over bumps, wandering at highway speed or a nose-dive under braking are signs.
Lights and electrical
Everything that lets you see and be seen must work:
- Headlights — low beam, high beam, aim and lens condition.
- Brake lights — all must illuminate, including the high-mounted stop lamp if fitted.
- Indicators — front, rear and side repeaters, flashing at the correct rate.
- Tail lights and number plate light — must be visible and not cracked.
- Hazard lights and horn — both must function.
A blown globe is cheap to fix, but cracked or moisture-filled lenses can be more involved. Check all your lights before the inspection.
Windscreen, wipers and mirrors
- Windscreen — no cracks or chips in the driver’s primary line of sight (the swept area directly ahead). Small chips outside this area may pass, but anything that obstructs vision fails.
- Wipers — must clear the windscreen effectively. Streaking or skipping blades need replacing.
- Washers — the washer jet must deliver fluid to the screen.
- Mirrors — the interior mirror and both exterior mirrors must be present, secure and give a clear rear view.
Seatbelts
Every seatbelt is tested:
- Retraction — the belt must retract fully and smoothly when released.
- Latching — the buckle must click securely and release cleanly.
- Webbing — cuts, fraying or heavy staining can be a fail.
- Mounting points — must be secure to the body with no cracking or corrosion around the bolts.
Rear seatbelts are included. If your car has child seat anchor points, they are checked too.
Body and structure
The tester looks for anything that compromises the structural integrity of the car:
- Rust — surface rust is generally fine, but rust that has weakened or perforated a structural panel (chassis rails, sills, floor, strut towers) is a fail.
- Doors — must latch, open and close securely from both inside and outside.
- Bonnet and boot — latches must hold securely.
- Exhaust — must be intact with no leaks or excessive noise. The system is checked from manifold to tail pipe.
What a roadworthy is not
A roadworthy is a minimum safety check on the day of inspection. It is not:
- A mechanical health check or condition report — it will not tell you how much life is left in the clutch, whether the engine burns oil, or if the timing belt is overdue.
- A guarantee the car is a good buy — that is what a pre-purchase inspection is for.
- A service — if your car is due for servicing, book a logbook or general service separately.
What happens if your car fails?
Not every car passes first time. If yours needs work:
- You receive a clear written list of every item that needs rectifying.
- You can have the repairs done at our workshop, take it elsewhere, or do the work yourself.
- Once repairs are complete, bring the car back for a re-inspection of the failed items.
- When it passes, we issue the certificate on the spot.
A roadworthy certificate is valid for 30 days from the date of issue.
How to book
Book a roadworthy at our Oakleigh South workshop. Most inspections are booked within a day or two and finished the same day. Send your rego online or call us on 0424 156 703.
For the full official requirements, see VicRoads — roadworthy certificates.